Garbin Estate

209 Toodyay Road
Middle Swan
WA 6056
Phone: (08) 9274 1747
Fax: (08) 9274 1747




This winery is next to the well known Jane Brook, which must help during Spring in the Valley. The tasting area is a no frills affair with a lot of certificates lining the office, but a number of low wooden benches show that Garbin expects coach traffic as well. The tasting areas boasts a rack of spotless wooden vats, conveying the feeling of being there for show rather than the hard-working items actually used, like at John Kosovich, The tasting area further sports some fridges, a wooden counter with no bar stools and doubles nicely as an echo chamber.

2007 Verdelho $17
This grape variety is grown extensively in the Swan valley and has become something of an accurate benchmark for a winery’s quality of their other varietals. This wine was fresh on the nose, with hints of tropical fruit, and a touch of nuts in the taste. The alcohol still dominates the fruit, it is off-dry wine a bit watery for me, but will be perfect when chilled and drunk on a hot summer afternoon.

2004 Wooded Chardonnay $17
The wine is a pale straw colour, lightly oaked. One would expect a typical vanilla nose and a certain grip, a body, imparted by the oak. Not so. The wine is pleasant enough, but lighter than expected. Drink soon.

2007 Late-picked Verdelho, $15
In the German spaetlese style, I liked this wine a lot. As sweet as it is supposed to be yet the sugar doesn’t cloy and the finish is clean. Decent value and a decent wine.
2008 Sauvignon Blanc / Semillon blend, $19
This blend is quite common in the valley. In this wine we found the Sauv dominating, with the typical wet dust nose of the variety. The taste was fresh and had pleasant hints of green apples. However the wine came across as a bit watery, thin, somehow.

2005 Shiraz $16
The valley produces some really good Shiraz wines: Windy Creek and Jarrah Ridge are prime examples. This wine started great: beautiful, deep colour and a great, complex nose – and after this hot intro it just sort of … fell flat.

2005 Reserve Shiraz $25
The grapes were picked at Gingin, so not from the valley. This Shiraz is much better: softer, tastes of luscious fruit with a long finish. But the intensity was lacking: again that thin, overly diluted cordial kind of taste.

2007 Merlot $20
Pleasant. Unwooded. Soft. Easy drinking. Won’t stand out in any crowd, but will never embarrass you either.

NV Ruby Shiraz fortified wine, $23
18% alcohol,but soooo smooth. Peppery, spicey, gorgeous long aftertaste; European style of making port. Highly recommended – we bought!
Verdict: it’s tough to compete against forty other wineries all vying for a place under the sun in the Swan Valley and being next to Jane Brook can’t be easy. The wines are competent and not unduly over-priced. But the tasting hall’s lack of amenities and atmosphere do not make this winery a destination of choice. The informed wine taster can have better wines and better value for money close by. On a side note, they had a merlot sparkling wine in the method champenoise style, it wasn’t available for tasting but we bought it to give it a try: watch this space!

Carilley Estate

www.carilleyestate.com.au
Lot 23 Hyem Road
Herne Hill
Western Australia 6056
Phone : 08 9296 6190
Fax : 08 9296 3890



On approaching we saw a full car park and were anticipating some numbers at the tasting counter: this happened to be deserted in favour of the restaurant next door, which was doing a brisk trade indeed. Our friendly attendant knew very little of wine in any shape or form, but was happy to pour as we requested.

2006 Chenin Blanc $18
We know what this grape can do, and Carilley wasn’t it. This wine was just another light, summery, easy drinking beverage.

2007 Verdi $19
A blend of Viognier and Chenin Blanc. Bland, slightly acid.

2006 Oaked Chardonnay, $24
Better. A light wine, but with some grip. The oaking must have been light, as we tasted no hint of the expected vanilla, citrus or oaken tannins.

2006 Crucible $26
This interesting wine is a blend of Sangiovese, Merlot and Malbec. The blend works well, compliments to the winemaker. Again spicy tastes, but the wine came across as delicate, smooth and velvety. The best of Carilley. Recommended.

2003 Shiraz $23
The most polite thing I can say about this wine is that it should have been withdrawn. This wine was oxidized and I still have the rank taste in my mouth. Dreadful.

2005 Reserve Shiraz, $37
This wine was light in taste, colour and texture. A lightweight, indeed. I could not understand how this wine could deserve either the “Reserve” title or its whopping price tag.

1997 Damask, $50
A fortified wine of golden colour. Sultana nose, good flavours of muscadel and raisins. The alcohol is raw and has no integration with the fruit, resulting in a hefty after-burn in the throat. Very expensive for the price.

Verdict: Swan valley winemakers should have respect for the consumers of their products: we vote with our wallets. A wine made from a specific varietal should taste like that varietal and additionally have its own, unique characteristics from the terroir as well as the micro-climate. A range of identical-tasting, light and fluffy wines at prices that are consistently beaten by your neighbours will not ensure long-term profitability. I sincerely trust the Carilley restaurant is a money-spinner.

Jarrah Ridge Wines

www.jarrahridge.com.au
651 Great Northern Hwy, Swan Valley,
Herne Hill, Western Australia 6056
Tel:+61 8 9296 6337




This wine cellar is on the Great Northern Highway and has a fair amount of traffic passing by. The property was purchased with this in mind, as most of the grapes are grown in Chittering, some 75 Km north of the Swan Valley. The cellar door is neat, with ample parking and the tasting area is clean and functional, but could do with a bit more character. Our host explained that they were expecting two coaches of tourist tasters later in the day: I am sure the tasting area would be pretty crowded then. No tasting fee which was a pleasant surprise after recent experiences. We tasted almost all that they had on offer, with the exception of the Rose.

2006 Classic White: $12
This wine is a blend of three wines: Verdelho, Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc. Undemanding and pleasant, balanced fruit and alcohol, hints of stone fruit. Laid back Western Australian style, well priced, a summery wine.

2007 Verdelho: $15
Good nose, good fruit, good wine. Lovely, clean finish. Apples on the taste. The second best Verdelho I have had in the Swan valley, after John Kosovich, but better priced. Thoroughly recommended.

2007 Chardonnay: $15
This wine is unwooded and the nose and taste were typical of the variety; a touch of stone fruit and almonds on the taste, the alcohol over-dominated a touch. For $15 you can't expect a competition entry though.

2007 Chenic Blanc: $12
This is an unusual grape for the Swan Valley and we mostly know it through our South African connection. Compliments to the winemaker for a luscious, fruity, off dry to sweetish wine. Clean and balanced, lovely to drink and enjoy. Great value for money, too!

Non Vintage Sparkling Chenin Blanc: $ 26
This excellent wine was made in the Methode Champenoise style. Good mousse (long lasting, tiny bubbles) A big, off dry, tasty, seductive wine – will weaken any resolve! Wow. As Honore de Balzac said: Sunshine in a glass.

2005 Merlot: $15
This wine was unwooded and light in colour; typical, but the lack of tannin tells. A competent, light and fruity wine, but for immediate drinking: do not cellar.

2005 Old Wagon Cab / Merlot: $9.50 (on special for $70 for a case of 12)
This wine is a blend of 65% Cab Sav. and 35% Merlot. Fourteen months on American oak. I tasted this wine twice, with a thirty minute interval: despite its light colour, the wine has some grip and feels like it has the legs to last a few years yet. The taste is pleasant but undemanding, good medium quality. Well priced: at the current special – a bargain!

2005 Cabernet Sauvignon $15
A competent wine; typical nose and taste; some licorice flavours detected. An unremarkable medium to better quality wine, but priced to sell. Drink now.

2004 Shiraz: $15
A solid Shiraz; a good wine, well integrated; minerals on the nose and a slightly salty (mineral?) after-taste, perhaps the biggest influence of the West Australian soil? Balanced alcohol. No champion, but a cut above your quaffing wine and good value for money.

2006 Shiraz Reserve $ 26 ea or $140 for a 6-pack
Soft and smooth. This wine is juicy and succulent and chewy; beautiful. 18.5 out of 20. I want ye, I need ye, oh baby, oh baby. Not cheap, but one of the better ones.

2004 Cabernet / Viognier Reserve $26
The addition of 6% Viognier, a white grape, did something magical to this blend: somehow it enhanced the fruit of the red! 14 months in oak (mixed American and French) resulted in a big, happy, juicy wine. Gorgeous, not cheap, but recommended.

Non Vintage Tawny Port A$16
Competent port; but not in the Portuguese “Port” style. Why not simply call it “Fortified Shiraz”? The alcohol is nicely integrated with the fruit and the wine is eminently drinkable; but it should preferably be enjoyed in the next few years as my impression was that it will probably will not cellar well enough to lay down.

Verdict: Jarrah Ridge most pleasantly surprised us. Nigel looked after us very well, and was very knowledgeable. Jarrah Ridge will do well commercially: they have a great location, longer opening hours, and anyone coping with coach loads of guzzlers - yet not so commercial they won’t give the time of day to amateur tasters like ourselves - must be doing a lot of things right. The absence of a tasting fee made us feel as welcome as the free cheese and olive nibbles that were provided as a matter of course; their good, solid wines and extensive range are bound to please. We spent a full hour tasting and it was as if we were but twenty minutes. Most thoroughly recommended.

Special Notice

There is a magical time of year when wineries have to make space for the new vintage. In the Swan Valley that time is in July. Bargains are to be had. Go to the Swan Valley now – and if you can spend more than two hundred dollars or so: HAGGLE. Specials abound – wine drinkers of the world, unite!

Swan Valley Wines

www.swanvalleywines.com.au
261 Haddrill Road
Baskerville WA 6056
Phone: +61 8 9296 1501

Our visit here started in the perfect way; no parking for coaches! A small vineyard that is a family concern, with the husband and wife administering the tasting and all other areas of the winery. The proud father was pushing his son’s first wine (he recently trained up as a winemaker) and we couldn’t but help wanting them to succeed.

The tasting area is intimate, accommodating a maximum of 10 bodies in comfort: with 7 tasters in attendance at the time it was getting a bit cramped. Swan Valley Wines is famous for their chocolate port and we will get to that shortly. They have a rather extensive range, including some fruity wines that we regrettably did not get round to tasting, but what an excellent excuse to return!

But which of the wines did we taste?

2007 Semillon $15
This wine is off-dry with good body, fruity and a relatively light 12.9% alcohol content. We found this a pleasing wine, good with food or on its own. Recommended.

2007 Unwooded Chardonnay: $15
An uncomplicated wine, this is a very decent offering with a good solid nose and an excellent example of the current fashion. The alcohol still dominates a bit, but give it another year to integrate.

2003 Grenache: $15
Grenache is one of those special wines that does not age well. It tasted and nosed arch-typical of the grape; but the wine was at the end of its shelf life and I cannot recommend it for that reason. I look forward to the new harvest.

2006 Shiraz: $18
Boasting a typical Shiraz nose, this wine had a good colour with definite hints of chocolate on the taste. I found the alcohol burning down my throat and checked the alcohol content on the label: a whopping 16%! I also found that this wine had a salty aftertaste, something I had never tasted before. An unusual wine!

2005 Reserve Shiraz $18
A very unusual Shiraz and not in the best meaning of the word. Very a-typical and not really something I feel comfortable recommending. The 15% alcohol gave it a mean punch to boot.

2005 The Road Bull: $20
This wine has a new label and is made in a completely different style. It is a blend of Grenache and Cabernet. The taste is clean and fresh, with definite hints of mint. This is a good wine, with good integration between alcohol and fruit, a balanced wine. Yes! The owners can be very proud of their son for producing such an excellent first wine.

2006 White Port: $15
This wine has a fruit-salad nose and despite its sweetness and hefty alcohol levels comes across as light and pleasant. Well priced too, and as such definitely recommended.

NV Chocolate Reserve: $23
Swan Valley Wines is famous for this blend of ports flavoured with a cocoa extract. The wine is lusciously chocolaty, nicely alcoholic and comes across full and deep. It certainly was popular with our fellow-tasters, who bought three bottles on the spot. Recommended.

Verdict: An unpretentious winery that makes no excuses for what it is. The winery should be making some exciting new inroads with the new winemaker on board and although it is understandable that they want to offload their existing older stock, it is not the best idea to advertise these as premium wines. The Road Bull indicates a new direction – that wine struck us as innovative, modern, unusual and definitely a reason for coming back. The ports are good drinking, but not for the purists wanting a typical Portuguese style. Overall: well worth a visit!

The Twisted Vine

www.thetwistedvine.com.au
247 Haddrill Road
Baskerville WA 6056
Phone: +61 (08) 9296 1348

The Twisted Vine used to be called Baskerville Wines but due to a change in ownership, the new management decided to rename the vineyard. It has a lovely outside dining area with a standard menu that is a little bit too expensive for my taste specializing in platters for two. They also ask a fee for tasting their wines ($5 for six wines) which was disappointing, and the tasting area seemed a bit cramped since as it occupies a corner of the restaurant.

2006 Classic Dry White A$ 19.80
The nose was very delicate and hard to pick up. The winery’s flowery description of this offering raised false expectations. It had a strong after-burn.

2006 Unwooded Chardonnay $19.80
A pleasing drink, meant to be savoured and light enough to satisfy most lighter style white drinkers.

2006 Rose/Rouge $20.00
Made from Chenin Blanc. Good colour, sweeter in style, kool-aid flavours. Pricey for what you get.

2006 Cabernet/Shiraz $23.00
This wine had some body, but again the after-burn was overpowering. Unfortunately better has been done for cheaper.

2006 Cabernet/Merlot $ 22.00
The best that Twisted Vine offered us on the day, but it seemed a bit light in colour, suggesting that it should be drunk soon. It had a lovely fruity nose, but little grip. The integration between fruit and alcohol was pretty good.

2006 Oscar Gold $ 22.00
When the owner confides that some of his patrons have confused this wine with water, I was alarmed. It has a watery look, but it is a very sweet wine and is good for after dinner drinks. It doesn’t demand much and is best suited for those social occasions when what you are drinking is of secondary concern.

Verdict: This vineyard has clearly gone through some rough times. Costly tastings and a premium price range restaurant will certainly assist the cash flow. Unfortunately, having wines that often barely qualify as “fillers” in a region abounding with excellent, value for money wines, cannot help their cause. I’d give this one a miss.

Sandalford Winery

http://www.sandalford.com/
3210 West Swan Road
Caversham, WA 6055
Phone: 08 9374 9374

Visited: 15 June 2008

We pulled into Sandalford on wet, cold day and were surprised when we saw three tourist coaches outside. Things started looking bleak when we entered to find that the tasting menu was also written in Japanese (a bona fide sign that this was a tourist trap) and a tasting room that was also filled with merchandise not necessarily related to wine. There were plenty of ladies in attendance behind the counter and the tasting room was well-appointed but it couldn't avoid a commercial or "shop" feel. The adjacent restaurant was busy but a bit too pricey for my liking, with main dishes costing the same or more as in Perth city. There is a tasting fee of A$ 2.50 per person; for this one can taste virtually the entire range and this has the benefit of doing away with any moral obligation to buy anything.

Sandalford has four brands of wines; Element, Margaret River, Estate Reserve and Museum Releases. All of these groups are marketed and created with different target markets in mind. We tried some of the Element Wines, Margaret River Range but stuck mostly to the Estate Reserve.

And so on to the wines.

Margaret River Classic Dry White (semillon sauvignon blanc) 2008 $20.00
This is a classic white wine, very light with a fruity after taste and is a bit of an in-between wine.

Estate Reserve Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2008 $25
More crisp than the Classic Dry White and has a rather dusty aftertaste. It has a lovely Sauvignon nose, the best of the lot in my opinion.

Estate Reserve Verdelho 2008 $25
This is a wine designed mostly to be pleasing but unfortunately it falls rather flat and becomes just a bland wine.

Estate Reserve Chardonnay 2008 $35
This wine has been in French oak for a year, as mentioned by our hostess, which is rather obvious in its nose. You can smell and taste a hint of butter as well as the citrus that is mentioned in the description. I am not sure that this wine needs the sulphide preservative; the alcohol was, at 13.5%, in line with current tastes but a touch heavy. It is a well made wine and eminently drinkable; but you can find something on par, if not better, elsewhere in the valley.

Element Merlot 2007 $14
This was a very fresh wine and the colour was that of raspberry kool-aid. It had a lovely plum nose and the same wet dust aftertaste that is becoming a signature taste of Sandalford wines. It has got 14.5% alcohol so it will be popular with people with a certain crowd, especially when you bring it for a dinner. The price tag would also help with its popularity!

Estate Reserve Shiraz 2004 $35
This wine had a lovely soft rounded nose which simply smelled divine. It was well aged, balanced and had a most amazing colour and with an alcoholic content of 14.5% I was surprised that the alcohol didn't dominate the taste.

Estate Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 $35
The first thing that hits you when you smell and drink this wine is the prominent sensation of mint. The oak of this wine is not very obvious, but a flowery-herby taste is the very noticeable. There was a definite after burn with the taste which came as a disappointment.

Element Late Harvest 2008 $14
This is a very sweet and fruity wine, very undemanding and perfect for those lazy afternoons next to the pool when the wine has been chilling in the eski for the last few hours. It goes down way too easily!

Founders Reserve Liqueur Port $30
It is beautifully balanced, with a slight taste of raisins and a bit of spice. This port is properly made in the Portuguese style and is one of the best things we tasted at Sandalford

Verdict
To be honest, I found it to be a over commercialised and very expensive for what you got. It was a bit soulless, especially for a winery in the Swan Valley which prides itself on being accessible.
Most of the wines were simply expensive for what they offered, especially since you can walk to most bottle stores in Australia and buy a similar quality of wine for less. Great place to go to if you are playing tour guide but if it just for yourself, I would give it a miss.